A
Waking dream…
Of ingenious geometry, fine linens and other encounters…
From his cherished personal gallery of emotive images, Alexis
Mabille brings out and mingles personal memories from a grand
old linen closet, with recollections of distant travel.
Those impressionist sources are filtered by a taste for precise
geometric shapes.
And of course, the designer pursues his beloved tuxedo, a necessary
counterpoint in black to his fashion.
But as always the Alexis Mabille style maintains its unique contemporary
freedom and whimsical strength, to which it adds a sensual poetry,
lightness, and pastel shades, which are always dear to him.
His inspirational sources attest to the designer’s ease
with rigorous geometry, yet always translated in light or fluid
materials: flat T or Tube cuts , uncontoured pieces of fabric,
along with inserted zigzag bands, contrasting borders, and pants’
baguettes… beaded embroidered rickrack, full-circles for
skirts and strapless or camisole tops, and square V-neck cardigan…
Whereas gossamer laces link to the youthful freshness of cotton
eyelet, crepes are also used in pastels powder-pink, sky blue
or tender greys, and the crystal embroideries, unraveling feathers,
and the bows and satin ribbons so beloved by the designer…
scatter a suave poetry and impertinence over the collection.
The androgynous black tuxedo and its seduction are in opposition:
- the faux-casual, waist-less loose overalls - shorts and pants
with drawstring satin ribbon knotted strapless camisole - or one
for jogging with an elongated tailored collar;
- to the hyper sophistication of long sheath Mermaid line gowns,
cut in severe summer wools, flat crepes, on to the wedding suit
of the bride.
With its particular modern proportions and geometric sharpness,
yet light, fluid and refined, this Alexis Mabille collection in
precious materials (crepes, organza, laces, embroideries and satins)
adapts just as well to fresh cottons, piqués, popelines,
ginghams, Chambrays and denim in the ready-to-wear line. |
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